KARA TEZGAH / THE SEMI-AUTOMATIC LOOM
In der Türkei wird er „Kara Tezgah“ und im englischen „Black Loom“ genannt. Die eigentliche Übersetzung in das Deutsche wäre schwarzer Webstuhl/ schwarze Werkbank. Ich verwende den Ausdruck halbautomatischer Webstuhl, weil trotz des maschinellen Antriebs noch viel von Hand gemacht werden muss. Wie zum Beispiel das häufige Wechseln der Spule im Schiffchen mit Ein-und Ausschalten und die Überwachung der Funktionsweise, da es oft Unregelmässigkeiten gibt, die korrigiert werden müssen.
The following video serves as your functional visual guide to show how the black loom works. Treat you’s Oktopus- Pestemal is being woven. Click on the image or here
The electrically powered dynamo-propulsion engine (1) on the right-hand side rotates the two gears, which in turn drive the three various basic movements of the loom:
- The wooden batten (2)presses the weft (the filling yarn) towards the already formed towel.
- The wooden shuttle (3) with the pink weft thread inside is sent back and forth, creating the cross weave.
- The various shafts (4) move vertically from top to bottom. The heddles (vertically running threads), which are attached to the various shafts, move the vertical warp threads to create the pattern.
The desired pattern is thus woven row by row.
THE PATTERN
On the left hand side is the punch card (5)which defines the pattern of the pestemal. The design is punched into the card and mechanically scanned. Depending on the pattern on the punch card, the mechanism on the upper part of the loom is lifted and the appropriate shaft with the attached heddle is moved up and down, thus weaving the pattern.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Der halbautomatische Webstuhl, damals auch „Power Loom“ genannt, wurde im 18. Jahrhundert in England erfunden und zuerst von Hand, danach mittels einer Dampfmaschine angetrieben.
The punch card looms, which include the well known Jacquard loom, made an important contribution to industrialization of textile production. The punch card system helped lay the foundation for modern computer control technology in general and, as such, gave rise to the fully automatic looms capable of producing thousands of fairly complex patterned towels per day.
