November 2021
The last time that I wanted to visit treat you's associated weavers in Turkey, the pandemic had just begun. I was only able to order and receive my new consignments using WhatsApp with a lot of pictures and many, many messages. I truly prefer to speak and actually communicate in person with these lovely people over a proper Turkish tea and some Simit (Turkish pretzel). An actual visit is long overdue so I excitedly pack my bags and journey back to the land of the Bosphorus with all those beautiful pestemals early on a lovely November morning
Istanbul
My first port of call is with my trusted supplier in Istanbul. The city feels and is extremely busy and I am truly surprised by the sheer amount of tourists that mainly come from the Arabian nations and from Russia. European travellers are barely visible here which, in my opinion, is due to the cooler late Fall climate. Turkey is a popular European destination between late spring and early fall for its sunny, warm and beautiful beaches. A moment of realization occured to me here in that I, admittedly, have gotten far too accustomed to the pandemic’s social distancing guidelines that I felt somewhat overwhelmed and uncomfortable in this vast sea of human activity.
It is so fantastic to actually see and speak with everyone again in “real life”. Sela is delighted with the special duty-free bottle of Raki that I brought him and I am delighted to be able to speak again with Sela’s boss, who at 75, still comes joyfully to work because he feels “relaxed” and “at home” in his office
Synchronously this weekend, the world famous Istanbul Marathon is taking place and as such, all roads near Besiktas and the first bridge are closed off completely to all traffic - which is a very rare occurence here. The marathon is a fabulous event and a wonderful occasion for my dear friend Meryem, the founder of the Buldan Foundation , and her friends to participate in while allowing them to raise awareness in and promote their charitable goals and ideals. Through the Buldan Foundations direct particpation in the Istanbul marathon, funding is raised by sponsorships and through donations for their ongoing project,"We Are Changing The Future"that supports young women to partake in and complete an apprenticeship program to educate and provide these women with an excellent working foundation and hands on practical experience for their future lives and careers.
Treat you also supports the Buldan Foundation by donating a portion of the sales proceeds. Feel free to read more about this in my previous blog post "A deeper understanding behind treat you Towel sales.
I’ll have to wait until the next day to meet up with Meryem at their abode in the Denizli area, as we are all very busy with our own agendas in Istanbul today.
On The Road Again
The next stage of my trip begins with a late evening unpacking, repacking, then sleeping a few hours to get up the "blessed time" of 4:00 AM, then making it in time to the new Istanbul Airport with a 35-minute taxi ride - instead of the usual bus ride. Which, as I find out while actually making it to waiting at the bus stop at 5:00 AM sharp, that, the next bus does not leave until 5:30 AM?!! The taxi driver is really enthusiastic about the early morning empty roads that his driving speed exceeds my safety and comfort zone. As I tactfully attempt to communicate my issues with his driving, he responds by whole heartedly explaining to me all of his “Corona Safety Measures In Place” for the rest of the ride. His interpretation of my tactful attempt to have him reduce his driving speed was that I have issues about getting infected with COVID-19 in his taxi. This part of my journey definitely falls under a "Lost in Translation" moment this early morning. At 8:00 AM my flight lifts off through the thick fog, over the cloud cover and up into the sun for a one hour flight heading south.
Once landed, I hit the car rental agency, pick up my “much larger” car that I actually had booked and sit behind the wheel for another hour and a half until Google Maps informs me that I have arrived.
After more than 2 1/2 years, I’m truly excited and overjoyed to be here again at the Buldan Foundation where I head into the in house Geleyli Café and meet up with my tireless friend Mereym. We exchange heartfelt greetings and she then proceeds to enthusiastically inform me about her and the foundations success at the Istanbul marathon, where, she was able to motivate 46 runners from all over Turkey to participate on behalf of the foundation and help to raise funds.
After several Turkish teas and coffees to keep me awake and functioning over the afternoon, I meander about the village to check out the shops sites. Full of new ideas and inspirations, I meet up with and have an early, hearty and warm dinner with Meryem, her husband and her mother, make my way back to my hotel and simply fall into bed tired and done from this event filled day and crash out for the night.
Breakfast At Ibrahim's
The next morning - at a more “decent” time - I meet up with Ibrahim and his parents home for an outdoor breakfast on their lovely porch. When I cordially inquire with Ibrahim’s mother about her mother-in-law, whom I met on my first visit in 2016, I experience my second "Lost in Translation" moment on this trip. Ibrahim's mother points his finger upwards to the heavens above. Oh dear, Oh dear ... I dismayingly expressed my condolences only to have her give me a rather “funny look” for an instant and then laughingly explain that her dear mother-in-law has not passed on, but but simply chosen to stay upstairs in the house instead of joining us for breakfast. I honestly thought she was pointing upwards to heaven and not the upstairs bedroom. Of course I am relieved to have completely misinterpreted her sign language and heartily enjoy breakfast with true joyfullness while taking in the stunning views of the surrounding hills
Ibrahim and myself have not been face to face for even more than 2 1/2 years and are indeed happy to catch up on our events over time while enjoying fresh tea and Simit bread. Please check out more of my first visit in my blog post"Is Turkey Losing It’s Centuries-Old Weaving Tradition?". Fortunately, Ibrahim is still carrying on the weaving tradition in his own way and is now planning to expand his studio that is built right next to the family house.
treat you’s Octopus Traditionally Produced Pestemal Towel and Namaka - A Traditionally Made Pestemal come from his family. These unique artisanal pestemals are woven on a semi-automatic loom, locally known as a “Black Loom” in their studio built right next to the family house.
Ibrahim and his family, like the majority of people here in Turkey, are more than worried about the rapidly rising inflation rates. The Turkish Lira is losing value from week to week making food, everyday items and, of course, the price of the threads required to weave Pestemals constantly more expensive.
COVID-19 infections seemed to have been spared in this region initially but then came the 2nd Infection Wave. They tell me solemly that, unfortunately, in November 2020 that a lot of people fell ill, their hospitals became overcrowded and, even more tragicallly, many people died.
Life in Turkey is currently overwhelmed with many difficult challenges.
An Afternoon In Nurai's Garden
In the afternoon I get to meet Nurai and her husband Femi in their beautiful garden next to their house. They have currently put their weaving work on hold because they have not received any orders due to the pandemic and have helped to care for the needs of their 4 grandchildren.
I wanted to change their “on hold” status because treat you's Nurai Hamam Towel,is made by them and I would love to have more in my collection for sale. The two of them lay out their entire colour selection of threads for me to choose from and it is not easy to make my choices with all the diversity of options available.
Their pestemals are woven on a small Black Loom called a "yuvalli kara tezgah" in Turkish and Nurai also has and weaves on a true hand loom in her mini studio in their garden. I wrote about my last visit with them in my blog post entitled "Journey to the Weaver Region of Turkey Part 1".
Last Impressions
The following morning I meet up with Fatma , who has truly “hand woven” some unique pestemals available in treat you’s collection, for a chat over Turkish coffee and to take a final stroll through the village. The characteristic “rhythmical clacking” sound of the looms can be heard everywhere here and I am fascinated by an elderly gentleman and the quaint yet rather dilapidated houses made of stone and wood.
This region of Turkey has an incredible offering of history and culture. When the times allow for me to take my next trip back into Turkey, I will definitely visit the ancient cities (Laodikeia, Tripolis and Hierapolis), and once again experience the impressive white limestone of Pamukkale. This is most assuredly not my last visit to Turkey.
My final evening in Istanbul is once again a late night adventure of repacking and packing for the homeward journey. After a “few” hours of sleep, I once again awake in the blessed early morning hours and hop into another taxi to whisk me off to the airport. No further “Lost in Translation” moments or speed issues transpire during this cab ride and my more than eventful journey comes to it’s conclusion as I land safely back home in Switzerland
